Saddle up for Salty Margs, Cacao Ceremonies, and Horse-Riding at Sun Ranch, Byron Bay

WHEN I STROLL INTO SUN RANCH in the Byron Bay hinterland, a rather large chicken is standing idly between the sunken lounge room and sliding glass doors. “That’s Bernard,” says staff member Leon, who hails from Germany. “We have the same name for every single chicken,” he laughs. Big bird was not the first thing I expected to see wandering these designer digs, but it wouldn’t be a ranch without a little country cuckoo.

Founded by designer Jamie Blakey (of Australian denim label One Teaspoon) and friend Julia Ashwood, this 55-acre estate is “Byron” in a nutshell. A water tank at the rear of the property is scrawled with the hotel’s unofficial slogan “Hotel of Good Times,” as are the bathrobes. Complimentary margaritas are served on arrival as the aroma of burning sage wafts through the indoor spaces. There’s free yoga every morning while bacon cooks in the kitchen. A Cosmic Cowboy activities menu offers everything from cacao ceremonies to astrology and horse riding in collaboration with local business Zephyr Horses.

Inspired by the Californian ranch houses of the 70s, the interiors of the main Long House and The Lair are a little bit spaghetti Western with just enough modern edge to keep it cool rather than kitsch; an oversized fuchsia lounge, sunken living rooms, vintage and new furnishings, a sculptural fireplace and a sit-up island in the kitchen. Outside, cowboy hats are hung along the back wall to anchor the concept. As well as five pool suites in The Rambler Long House with names such as Wam Bam, the property also sleeps guests in six two-bedroom off-grid barns, dotted along the top part of the property, and featuring colorful bathrooms, a fireplace and comfy beds with linen bedding.

We’re staying in two-bedroom barn The Gambler, which overlooks the highway in the distance, but the noise isn’t an issue, and kookaburras regularly appear on the balcony outside, as do grey-and-pink galahs in the surrounding trees. “In our eyes, Bundjalung Country is hands-down one of the most beautiful parts of the world,” says Jamie Blakey. “The natural beauty is immense; the oceans, river systems, mountains, waterfalls, rainforests and volcanic soil,” she says. “It’s 10 minutes to the ocean yet surrounded by Byron Creek and only moments to the charming village of Bangalow.” Keen to keep that natural alliance, the ranch has begun a regeneration program to revive the area and wildlife, and so far, has planted over 10,000 native plants and trees.

Guests can dine from a small menu throughout the day, or cook in the barns, which have a kitchen and fridge. Breakfast is included, with staff collecting 10 eggs every day from the on-site chicken coop, which is aptly signposted Ladies of the Ranch. They’re then softly poached in open-plan kitchen The Lair and served as part of a breakfast buffet spread that showcases local produce including tomatoes, avocado, sourdough bread and feta.

There’s a lot to see and do in Byron Bay, but the property has plenty of reason to stay put, too. Alongside a 25-meter infinity pool, complete with sun-loungers, there’s a firepit for roasting marshmallows or hosting meditation circles at the top of the property. Closer to the Long House is an outdoor badminton court and dining space The Field House which boasts an Argentian barbecue.  

The weather is cool when we visit, so our focus turns immediately to the Go Easy Dam, upon which floats a wood-fired sauna with a picture window that overlooks a paddock of grazing horses. “Why don’t you mosey on down in half an hour,” says staff member Carly when we express interest in testing it out. By the time we get there, the fire is roasting away.

That night, we drive five minutes to nearby hinterland village Bangalow to dine at acclaimed Aussie chef Matt Stone’s award-winning diner You Beauty. We order crocodile toast, kangaroo schnitzel and a glass of French white, then it’s back to the ranch for an early night. The good balance. There’s plenty to tempt teetotallers in Byron Bay, but Sun Ranch is all about finding your happy medium.

www.sunranch.com.au; barns from AUD1,620 for a two-night minimum

BOOK YOUR STAY AT SUN RANCH VIA BOOKING.COM

Images courtesy of Sun Ranch. Lede and hero image by by Anson Smart.

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