RENOWED SUSHI MASTER Shinji Kanesaka has a growing constellation of Michelin-starred, Edomae-style sushi restaurants in Tokyo, Singapore and London. His newest outpost, Kanesaka Hong Kong, features just nine counter seats and a private dining room. On a recent visit, he talks sushi 101 with T+L Southeast Asia.
Please tell us about yourself.
Shinji Kanesaka: I am Shinji Kanesaka. I am 52 years old and have been a chef for 34 years. I started training as a sushi chef when I was 19. I worked at restaurants in Ginza, Tokyo, for 10 years then opened my own restaurant 24 years ago.
What is Edomai-style sushi?
Shinji Kanesaka: There are many different types of sushi from different parts of Japan – Osaka, Nara, Tokyo, etc. Edomai refers to the handmade sushi sold by street vendors in Tokyo during the later stages of the Edo period (1603-1868). Also known as nigiri sushi, it is the popular oval-shaped kind you see with a portion of rice on the bottom and fish on top.
T+L SEA: How do you distinguish between good and bad sushi?
Shinji Kanesaka: Good sushi is not only taste and flavor. The most important factor is to show the spirit, character and soul of a sushi chef. You must use high-quality rice and rice vinegar, not red vinegar, which overpowers the fish. Treating sushi as work or a routine without soul or spirit is bad sushi.
T+L SEA: What makes a good sushi chef?
Shinji Kanesaka: A good chef is defined by their spirit. It also takes many years of training. You’re always cutting, cutting, cutting, so you must have enthusiasm for it. From the outside, sushi chefs might appear strict, but I don’t think we are. If you devote yourself to your work or job, however, you should be passionate about it.
Why do sushi restaurants all look the same?
Shinji Kanesaka: Originally Edomai sushi was started by outdoor vendors selling from wooden carts. Sushi restaurants developed from this traditional style. Although sushi restaurants have wooden counters, each is different. Master chefs decide its dimensions and the chef’s character is hidden in small details.
How do the Kanesaka venues differ in each city?
Shinji Kanesaka: The Kanesaka experience in Singapore, Hong Kong, and Japan are similar and display the elements of exquisite taste, visual beauty and meticulous craftsmanship. There are slight differences because Japan has four defined seasons and within that 72 micro seasons, while Singapore does not. In Japan, I can express the seasons more clearly with vegetables and fish to match. London is different because we don’t use Japanese fish. Instead, we source our seafood locally and from Europe.
What does omakase mean?
Shinji Kanesaka: The original meaning of omakase is different to nowadays. The word used to indicate that the chef knew a regular guest’s favorite dishes. So, by saying “omakase,” chefs were being asked to serve what the guests like. Now it means to serve what the chef recommends.
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Bonito
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Steamed Octopus with Japanese Mustard
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Hokkaido Hairy Crab with caviar
Are there any rules or guidelines diners should observe to enjoy a sushi experience?
Shinji Kanesaka: Avoid strong fragrances and don’t make or take phone calls at the counter, as it affects the atmosphere and other guests. It’s OK to take photos but turn off the sound and flash. Don’t take too long for photos however, otherwise the sushi will go dry.
Timing is everything for sushi, so don’t be late, and eat the sushi as quickly as possible once it’s in front of you. From the temperature of the rice to the fish, everything is carefully calibrated to be eaten immediately once it’s served. And go easy on the soy sauce and wasabi, as the chef as already added the right amount.
What are your thoughts on ageing fish?
Shinji Kanesaka: Each fish has a right time to eat. Some fish can keep for a few days but shouldn’t be aged for long like beef. The longer you age fish, the more fish flavor you lose, though I also serve aged tuna, which has great flavor. It doesn’t always have to be the freshest fish but usually freshest is best.
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Semi-fatty Tuna
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Uni
What is the best way to eat sushi?
Shinji Kanesaka: Eat the sushi immediately! Without getting into discussions about hygiene, it’s better to eat sushi with your fingers, although chopsticks are OK too. The chef changes the thickness of rice depending on the fish topping. With fingers, you can feel the difference while with chopsticks you can’t. Also, a chef makes sushi with his hands, so using your hands forms a connection.
Why is Kanesaka special?
Shinji Kanesaka: Every chef has their own style and spirit and the chefs at Kanesaka learn how to reflect mine. They are also nurtured and mentored to develop their character and personality, because their craft involves mind and body. Sushi is not only about form and shape. We must show balance and beauty to our guests. The cut must be balanced, the sushi balanced, and communication balanced. We put on a performance for our guests at the counter.
kanesakahk.com; meal prices per person are: lunch nigiri set HK$1,580 + 10%, lunch omakase HK$1,980 + 10%, dinner omakase HK$2,380 / $2,980~ + 10%
Images courtesy of Kanesaka Hong Kong.
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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Written By
Kee Foong
Born in Malaysia, raised and educated in Australia and based in Hong Kong, Kee Foong has had the privilege ..Read More
