Aww, Honey, Honey. This KL Bar Captures Terroir in a Glass

PUSHING THROUGH THE LARGE DOUBLE DOORS into Bar Trigona, nestled in a far corner of the Four Seasons Kuala Lumpur, you’re transported into a chic, Rat Pack-era room with a psychedelic hive-mosaic glass ceiling and a back bar that immediately sets the tone. “Wow,” I thought, “bring on the cocktails!” Little did I know, this voyage of bees, honey and spirits would uncover a story much deeper than the bottom of my glass. 

I was greeted by Rohan, the man behind the hive, who crafted this unique cocktail program centered around the local terroir—the land and flora from the countryside just a few hours outside KL. We started the night with a toast, sipping from a thimble-sized glass of honey. At the time, I didn’t fully grasp the delicate balance this honey represented—but it’s a core element in why this watering hole has gained such international, er, buzz.

Before obsessing over honey and the Trigona bees (the scientific name for stingless bees, after which the bar is named), Rohan had already achieved tremendous success at Sidecar in Delhi, where his imaginative cocktails earned global recognition, making Sidecar the first Indian bar to make it to prestigious international best lists. 

Rohan’s latest cocktail menu, Colour Me Curious, follows his philosophy of precision, balance, storytelling, and an element of theatrics. This menu showcases honey in inventive ways, alongside a wide range of offerings that highlight local Malaysian flavors while nodding to household traditions. The Cacao and Curry is a must-try, and Zen, a playful twist on a Vesper Martini with local lychee, quickly became a crowd favorite. Bonus: You get to test your skills by shaking and pouring your own martini into a nitro-chilled glass. For those seeking a lighter experience, there are several spirit-free options, including a honey flight that is definitely worth the calories. 

To find out why, I took a winding trip up a lush jungle mountainside, two-and-a-half hours outside of the capital, to Dino Kelulut Farms. Kelulut refers to the local name for stingless bees. These bees don’t produce hives like the ones I’m familiar with from the West. Instead, they nest in the hollow trunks of trees, a unique adaptation that presents challenges for farmers. So, the farmers have developed an innovative setup to mimic the bees’ natural habitat, which better allows them to thrive. 

One of the discoveries of this trip was how the proximity to different flora affects honey’s flavor. The hives are spaced just 100 meters apart, but the farmers have strategically planted different fruits and flowers near each hive, resulting in dramatically different flavor profiles based on the bees’ pollination patterns. Honestly, my mind was blown. 

After tasting several honeys from different hives, one thing became glaringly obvious: we’ve all been lied to. Very few of us have ever tasted pure honey straight from the hive. The flavors are far more complex and delicious than anything you’ll find on a store shelf. With this newfound appreciation, we returned to the bar, eager to taste the cocktails again, this time with a deeper understanding of Malaysia’s hidden natural abundance. 

Bar Trigona isn’t just a bar—it’s a love letter to Malaysia, its land, and its culture. Each cocktail is a dedication to local farmers, the magic of the Trigona bee, and Rohan’s vision of sustainable, story-driven mixology. Bar Trigona isn’t merely a stop for cocktail lovers; it’s an immersive experience in the art of mixology, interwoven with the beauty of nature. So next time you’re in Kuala Lumpur, I highly recommend a visit to this hive of considered drinking, where honey takes center stage in a program unlike any other in the city. 

www.fourseasons.com/kualalumpur/dining/lounges/bar-trigona; cocktails from MYR68

Chef Mario Tolentino, based in Bangkok, is a T+L Tastemaker. 

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Images courtesy of Bar Trigona, unless otherwised noted.

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