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Trips The Art Of Slowing Down: Chasing Nostalgia Aboard India's Iconic Heritage Trains
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The Art Of Slowing Down: Chasing Nostalgia Aboard India's Iconic Heritage Trains

I discover how India's iconic heritage trains — Darjeeling Himalayan, Kalka-Shimla, and the Nilgiri Mountain Railway — celebrate slow travel.

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ByEdwina Dsouza Published: Feb 01, 2025 10:00 AM HKT7 min read

The Art Of Slowing Down: Chasing Nostalgia Aboard India's Iconic Heritage Trains
Nilgiri Railways | Image credit: Jetkerim/Pexels

As someone who has always romanticised train travel, boarding India’s heritage trains felt like stepping into a moving time capsule. These narrow-gauge marvels, recognised as UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the collective title ‘Mountain Railways of India’, are more than mere transportation. They’re living relics, bearing witness to history, showcasing the ingenuity of late 19th and early 20th-century engineering, and preserving the charm of a bygone era.

Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of experiencing India’s three iconic mountain railways: the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, the Kalka-Shimla Railway, and the Nilgiri Mountain Railway. Each journey unfolded like a love letter to slow travel, celebrating the quiet beauty of patience, discovery, and timeless wonder.

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India’s UNESCO-listed heritage trains

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

heritage trains
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway | Image credit: Edwina D’souza

Back in the 1800s, a journey to Darjeeling was a gruelling expedition involving boats, bullock carts, and arduous treks, often spanning several days. That all changed with the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), which transformed this trek into a scenic and leisurely ride. Established in 1881, the DHR was the first and is still considered by many to be the finest example of a hill passenger railway.

On a misty October morning, I found myself on the vintage platform in Darjeeling, where the hiss of steam mingled with the crisp mountain air, creating a scene straight out of a Bollywood film. If you’ve watched the films Parineeta or Main Hoon Na, you’ll know what I mean. The 142-year-old ‘toy train’, as it’s fondly known, is an icon of the Darjeeling hills. Its narrow-gauge tracks wind their way from the Himalayan foothills of West Bengal to Darjeeling, weaving through lush tea plantations and charming villages.

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I opted for the joyride from Darjeeling to Ghum, India’s highest railway station, a perfect route to experience the essence of the railway without committing to the full seven-hour journey from New Jalpaiguri. The train chugged along tracks that often shared space with roads, passing shops, traffic, and friendly locals who waved as we went by.

As the train rounded the Batasia Loop, I leaned out the window to capture the views: endless tea gardens and, on a clear day, the majestic Kanchenjunga, the third-highest peak in the world, looming in the distance. The loop itself is an engineering marvel designed to help the train gain altitude. It also houses the Gorkha War Memorial, which honours the bravery of the soldiers.

Darejeeling
A tea garden in Darjeeling | Image credit: pkddapacific/Pexels

At Ghum, I disembarked to visit the small railway museum, where sepia-toned photographs and historical artefacts offered a glimpse into the DHR’s fascinating history and legacy. After soaking in the stories, I boarded the train again to retrace my journey back to Darjeeling.

Plan your stay at these top heritage hotels in Darjeeling to complement your heritage train journey.

T+L tip: Skip the long haul from New Jalpaiguri and opt for the shorter joyride between Darjeeling and Ghum. Choose a clear day to catch stunning views of the valleys and the Kanchenjunga. Tickets can be booked on the IRCTC website.

Kalka-Shimla Railway

heritage trains
Kalka-Shimla Toy Train | Image credit: Edwina D’souza

While Darjeeling’s toy train danced through bustling streets, the Kalka-Shimla Railway was like stepping into a quiet love story. This narrow-gauge line connects Kalka, a transit town in Haryana, to Shimla, the queen of the hills and the former summer capital of British India. Built between 1898 and 1903, it became an escape from the scorching plains, winding gracefully through the Himalayan Shivalik foothills, passing towns like Dharampur, Solan, Kandaghat, Taradevi and Barog before reaching Shimla.

If you plan a trip to towns near Shimla, read our guide to the must-visit places in Solan.

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I began my journey on a crisp morning, heading downhill to Kalka on the seven-hour route. The route meandered through 102 tunnels and over 800 bridges, each more picturesque than the last. Barog Station, where we made our longest stop, stood out with its quaint architecture, weathered signage, and vibrant flower gardens. Here, I jumped off the train to stretch my legs, savour a steaming cup of tea, and snap photos of the postcard-perfect platform.

Barog Railway Station
Barog Station | Image credit: amgprophoto/Pixabay

One of the route’s highlights is Tunnel No. 33, which is the longest on the line. Gliding through its eerie darkness before emerging into the golden embrace of Himachal’s rolling hills felt almost magical, like a scene pulled from a storybook. In the winter, the route transforms into a snowy wonderland, and I can only imagine how dreamy it must look then.

Also, read our story on the best places to visit in Shimla.

T+L tip: Travelling from Delhi? Hop on the Shatabdi Express to Kalka and continue your journey on the toy train to Shimla. You can easily book your tickets on the IRCTC website.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

heritage trains
Nilgiri Mountain Railway | Image credit: Edwina D’souza

The final gem in my heritage train trinity is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Tamil Nadu. Unlike the rugged Himalayan routes, this one winds through lush tea estates and eucalyptus forests and the undulating hills of the Nilgiris, aptly called the ‘Blue Mountains of Southern India’.

The railway’s story began in 1854, though the terrain’s immense challenges delayed construction and was only completed in 1908. This single-track marvel climbs from Mettupalayam at 326 metres to Ooty at 2,203 metres, making it one of the steepest rack-and-pinion railways in the world. For my journey, I chose the shorter yet equally scenic Coonoor-to-Ooty stretch, a delightful 90-minute ride through the heart of the Nilgiris.

Nilgiris
Nilgiri Hills | Image credit: balajisrinivasan/Pixabay

Coonoor station welcomed me like a scene from a living painting, with its vibrant colours, antique clocks, and vintage furniture evoking strong nostalgia. As the train’s whistle echoed through the hills, we embarked on a journey that felt suspended in time.

Each curve revealed a new scene, from lush forests to expansive tea valleys and wildflowers that added bursts of colour along the tracks. The train wound through tunnels, stopping at quaint stations like Wellington and Lovedale as if escorting us through a forgotten world. The smoke from the steam engine trailed behind us like a painter’s brushstroke across the sky.

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway has also earned its place in pop culture. The iconic “Chaiyya Chaiyya” song from the Hindi film Dil Se was filmed atop this train.

T+L tip: While the Nilgiri Mountain Railway officially starts in Mettupalayam, the stretch between Coonoor and Ooty is the most picturesque and should not be missed. Tickets for this heritage journey are available on the IRCTC website.

Are the heritage trains in India worth the ride?

heritage trains
Darjeeling | Image credit: donvikro/Pixabay

In a world that rushes to get from point A to B, these heritage trains remind us to pause and cherish what lies in between. Each of these trains is more than a ride – they are the living memories of an era gone by. If you ever yearn for a break from the fast-paced rhythm of modern life, hop aboard one of India’s heritage trains. You’ll find history in the tracks, stories in the stations, and magic in the journey.

Shop the best travel experiences here

(Feature image credit: Jetkerim/Pexels)

Related | Embark On A Storybook Journey Aboard India’s Toy Trains

Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Which trains have the best scenic views in India?

India has several scenic train routes, but the three mountain railways — Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, Kalka-Shimla Railway, and Nilgiri Mountain Railway — are unparalleled.

What UNESCO-listed train rides are in India?

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, Kalka-Shimla Railway, and Nilgiri Mountain Railway are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Two others, the Matheran toy train and Kangra Valley railway are also on the tentative UNESCO list.

What are common amenities on heritage trains in India?

These trains offer basic amenities like cushioned seating, but their charm lies in their vintage feel and picturesque stops.

What should I pack for a heritage train journey?

Definitely carry a camera (for the views), warm clothing (for the mountains), and water.

Written By

Edwina Dsouza

Edwina Dsouza

Edwina is a Mumbai-based writer who enjoys rambling about travel, culture, history, and food. Her stories ..Read More

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