Twenty-five intrepid souls had gathered in Kathmandu – the plan was to do a Nepal-Tibet bike tour on the new Royal Enfield Himalayan 450. Our eclectic group included a school principal, an entrepreneur, a chemical engineer, a working mother, and a retired man – all bound together by a shared love for adventure touring.
Nepal-Tibet bike tour day 1: Kicking off from Nepal
One of the biggest mistakes a traveller can make is believing that a journey can be controlled. Fate intervened, and I sprained my foot before the ride even began. Instead of succumbing to bravado, I decided to wait until my foot healed, lest I risk being unable to ride at all. So, I resigned to the backup vehicle for the first two days.
About 20 kilometres in, the air grew crisper and the landscape greener as we navigated the twisty roads on entering the Langtang National Park in north-central Nepal – linked with Qomolangma National Nature Preserve in the Tibet Autonomous Region in the north and east. Soon, the familiar asphalt gave way to a rugged terrain of stones and loose sand. By dusk, our convoy travelled 125 kilometres, reaching Timure on the Rasuwa-Kyirong border with the immigration checkpoint in sight.
Also, explore more with our guide to the most beautiful places in Nepal.
Day 2: Crossing over to Tibet
The following day, we rode 45 kilometres, giving us time for the formalities. Once we entered the immigration hall, the seriousness was palpable. Chinese officials methodically screened bags and people. After what seemed like an eternity, we emerged on the other side, greeted by our Tibetan guides with ceremonial white khatas (scarves).
From here, we reached our destination for the day – Kyirong town – in the late afternoon and went for our first stroll in Tibet. Kyirong is a town of contrasts – the bustling main square gives way to a ghost town of empty apartments and locked offices. It was a city in waiting for Chinese migrants. Dinner was at 8:30 pm, but it was still broad daylight! Although Tibet is closer to India and Nepal in time zones, its assimilation into China meant we had to move our clocks two and a half hours ahead. The WiFi was patchy, and social media apps like Instagram, Facebook, and WhatsApp barely worked without a paid VPN. We were settling into the rhythm of Tibetan life.
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Nepal-Tibet bike tour day 3: Conquering Tingri altitudes
I finally decided to ride on day 3 of our Nepal-Tibet bike tour — my hands were itching for the handlebars. Setting off from Kyirong, the first task was remembering to switch to the right side of the road. We then stopped at a petrol station, amusingly parking a few meters away and manually dragging our bikes to the pumps — another Tibetan quirk that became routine.
Venturing into the Tibetan heartland, we joined Route 318, the longest National Highway in China, stretching 5,476 kilometres from Shanghai to Zhangmu on the Nepal border. The landscape on this route unfolded like a painting, with yellow plains meeting blue sky amidst snow-dusted mountains on the world’s highest plateau. We crossed the Kongtangla Pass and detoured to the shimmering Peikutso Lake. Here, we had lunch by the brackish waters with Mount Shishapangma, the 14th-highest mountain in the world, in the background. Fed and rested, we continued but soon pulled over when we saw the iconic Mount Everest, standing tall as the highest peak on Earth. When we finally reached Tingri, it took our breath away, quite literally! At 14,500 feet, my oxygen levels had dropped to 64 percent from the acceptable 80 percent+ levels. My fellow riders weren’t feeling any better, and that night was a test of survival of the fittest!
Also, explore our guide to the best hill stations in Nepal.
Day 4 of the Nepal-Tibet bike tour – In Shigatse
I woke up on day 4 still feeling the stubborn grip of altitude sickness. My guide handed me a liquid antidote that I quickly drank and set off for Shigatse, 320 kilometres away. We continued on the highway, flanked on both sides by open plains with wild yaks and ibex freely grazing, giving ample opportunity to throttle the Himalayan 450. The smooth tarmac roads were impressive, considering they were built in such remote regions, and everything around me played out like a time-lapse through my helmet visor. As the day wore on, we crossed Gyatsola Pass at 17,060 feet, finally reaching Shigatse, Tibet’s second-largest city and the seat of the Panchen Lama, the second-highest spiritual leader in Tibetan Buddhism.
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Day 5: Road to Lhasa
Our first task on day 5 of the Nepal-Tibet bike tour was to secure our local driving licenses at a Chinese police station so we could continue riding to Tibet’s Capital. A rite of passage, the license would eventually become a cherished keepsake. Next, we set out toward Lhasa, 320 kilometres away, riding alongside the Yarlung Tsangpo, also known as the Brahmaputra River (which originates in Tibet!). Nearing the capital, traffic thickened, and concrete houses began to dot the horizon, demanding our focus and maintaining lane behaviour. All was well, and by evening, we pulled into the porch of Hotel Tsedang with a sense of achievement in the air. That night, I treated myself to a cold beer. We had made it to Lhasa!
Nepal-Tibet bike tour days 6-7: Exploring Lhasa
For the next two days, we settled in Lhasa. Despite being “cold”, the strong sun made the weather surprisingly warm. Having visited Tibetan settlements in India, I expected a simple, laid-back town. But Lhasa was rapidly developing, with large shops, high-rise towers, and bustling streets.
Amidst this modernity, the old city retained its charm with the Potala Palace. The Winter Palace of the Dalai Lamas since the 7th century, the fortress majestically overlooks the Lhasa Valley and is a significant pilgrimage site for Tibetans. Climbing its zigzagging stairs was challenging at that altitude, but I slowly made my way to the palace. Inside, the Mandala room’s three-dimensional structures, Thangka paintings, and several funeral stupas of earlier Dalai Lamas stood out.
On day 7, we visited the sacred Jokhang Temple, built by the 33rd Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. Jokhang means “House of Buddha”, with the Jowo Shakyamuni statue, brought by his Chinese queen Wencheng. Inside Jokhang, monks prepared tsampa, a traditional porridge. Outside, pilgrims performed rituals in the periphery of the ancient Barkhor Square, surrounded by shops overflowing with souvenirs and fluttering prayer flags.
Later that evening, we watched an open-air Chinese opera about Princess Wencheng’s role in bringing Buddhism to Tibet. The elaborate costumes, grand sets and dramatic performances against the open sky brought history to life, making it a fitting finale to our Lhasa adventure.
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Nepal-Tibet bike tour days 8-10: Gyantse, Shegar and Kyirong
The morning sun rose, and it was time to get back on our motorcycles and bid farewell to Lhasa on day 8. Over the next few days, we would make our way back to Kathmandu. The ride out was bittersweet, with the city receding in our mirrors. The route took us alongside the stunning Yamdrok Lake, one of Tibet’s three great holy lakes. We could not resist stopping for pictures, especially when we spotted the rare Tibetan Mastiffs — fluffy dogs native to the region. After crossing the Gampa La Pass at 16,550 feet, we reached the Karo La Glacier at the foot of Mount Noijin Kangsang before settling into Gyantse, a town on the historical trade route between Tibet and Sikkim in India, from where we had a view of the 14th-century Gyantse fortress from our hotel.
On day 9, we mounted our motorcycles for a 320-kilometre journey to Shegar, the gateway to Mount Everest. En route, we stopped at the Qomolangma (or Mount Everest) National Nature Preserve, managed entirely by local volunteers protecting the region from deforestation and unregulated tourism. As evening approached, we arrived at our lodge in Shegar, slightly lower than Tingri in altitude, which had left us breathless on the way to Lhasa. Now acclimatised, the altitude no longer felt like an adversary but an old friend.
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Rain greeted us the next morning in Shegar, but undeterred, we set off for Kyirong, hoping for sunshine, and it soon broke through! However, clear skies were short-lived as crosswinds soon tested our skill and endurance as we tried to keep our bikes steady through the stunning yet intimidating mountains. Descending in altitude, the barren plains transformed into lush forests of the Kyirong Valley, and by evening, covering another 320 kilometres, we arrived at our hotel, marking our return to the edge of Tibet and our last night in the region.
Nepal-Tibet bike tour on day 11: Last lap to Kathmandu
Day 11 brought us back to the Rasuwa-Kyirong border, once again navigating the screenings and immigration on both sides. We bid farewell to our Tibetan guides. Crossing into Nepal, we switched back to the left side of the road and braced ourselves for the change in terrain. The smooth tarmac disappeared, replaced by dirt, gravel, stones, sand, and slush. Our Royal Enfield Himalayans crushed everything in their path, handling the off-road conditions like a breeze.
By evening, we had made it back to Kathmandu. A challenging ride, filled with highs and lows (quite literally!), but that made the success only sweeter. The point of travel is to do things you’ve never done before, and how often would you take your motorcycle to the highest region on Earth?
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(Feature Image Credit: Edwina D’souza)
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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
Yes, you need special permits for a Nepal-Tibet bike trip, including the Tibet Travel Permit and Group Tourist Visa from the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu. You also need a motorbike permit and a temporary Chinese driving license. Additionally, an Aliens' Travel Permit and Military Travel Permit may be required for certain areas like Mount Everest and Mount Kailash. Travel needs to be arranged through a local registered agency with a Tibetan guide who can help you with these permits.
April to September is the best time for a Nepal-Tibet bike trip with warm temperatures and accessible mountain passes.
Look for a bike that has the capability for both on and off-roading, a strong engine and great suspension. The Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 is a good choice.
A Nepal-Tibet bike trip can be safe with proper planning. Ensure you have all necessary permits, use a sturdy bike, travel during the right season and acclimatize to high altitudes.
In major towns like Kathmandu, Shigatse, and Lhasa, you’ll find good hotels ranging from basic to luxury. In smaller towns like Timure, Gyantse, Tingri, and Kyirong, you'll find lodges and guesthouses with basic facilities.
Yes. In fact, it is highly recommended. Not only do you need a group tourist visa to enter Tibet, but guided tours offer the advantage of experienced ride leads, logistical and backup support, and enhanced safety on the road. Royal Enfield Rides organizes such tours.
Ascend gradually to higher altitudes, allowing your body time to adjust. Drink plenty of water or electrolyte drinks, avoid strenuous activities at high altitudes, and watch for symptoms like headaches and dizziness. Carry oxygen cylinders in the backup vehicle. Having a local guide or support vehicle can be invaluable in case of an emergency.
Written By
Edwina Dsouza
Edwina is a Mumbai-based writer who enjoys rambling about travel, culture, history, and food. Her stories ..Read More
