Indigo, Rice, and All Things Spice. Rediscovering Isaan with Kids

“Is there a beach where we’re going?” asked James, my 15-year-old. “What will we be doing?” followed my 13-year-old, Mila. These are the kinds of questions that echoed around me for a week, after sharing the news of our upcoming adventure to see a part of Thailand they had never seen before. “What’s it called?” they both asked, to which I replied, “Guys, we are going to Udon Thani and trust me: you’ll love it.” 

Our family has been based in Bangkok for 11 years, traveling far and wide across the country, going everywhere from glistening southern beaches to northern mountain temples. I had traveled to Udon Thani before—without them—for food explorations, but this would be the first time experiencing Isaan with kids, as a real tourist. I was excited to see the area through my kids’ eyes.  

We jumped on an early flight from Bangkok to Udon Thani, to get the most of our day exploring the city. Our fabulous tour guide, Suree Pongnopparat, took us straight to Udon Thani Museum, where we were welcomed by Mr. Suriyan Sorin, deputy director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand. The gorgeous mustard-yellow colonial building, built in 1920 during King Rama VI’s reign and originally an all-girls school, was a perfect spot for a history lesson. Mila and James typically find museums hit or miss, but they were eager to learn about school life back then. They were especially surprised to discover how radically village life in northeast Thailand changed with the arrival of American GIs and a US airbase during the Vietnam War.

Suree told us that much of Thailand’s rice and salt is today produced in Udon Thani province. But more than an agricultural hub, it’s also a place with much historic significance, with unearthed pottery relics dating back to the Bronze Age. There are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites out here and we’d be visiting one later on.

With our stomachs rumbling, we first headed to lunch at Khao Piak Sen, a bustling Michelin-recommended restaurant that evolved from a simple food stall. I was a bit nervous about how the kids would handle Isaan food, known for its spiciness—and some unique ingredients like ant larvae. Thankfully, there was a mix of Isaan, Vietnamese and more common Thai dishes. “Mom, the food looks good,” Mila whispered and I sighed with relief as we ordered practically everything on the menu.  

Our tour guide explained that Vietnamese immigrants brought the cuisine to Isaan during the war, so typical breakfast dishes here include noodle soup, kai krata (fried eggs with sliced sausages) and mini banh mi filled with Vietnamese pork sausage. We devoured most of those dishes, and the kids particularly loved the rice porridge with lots of crispy garlic.  

After lunch, we checked into the gorgeous Hotel Moco for a quick refresh before our next adventure. This Art Deco–style gem, with its contemporary-colonial flourishes and airy lobby, was perfectly located for our family. (Evenings became our favorite time of day here, as the area grew lively thanks to the nearby UD Town Community mall with its never-ending food court, live music and night market that provided a real taste of Isaan life.)  

In the afternoon, we made our way to the Thai Chinese Cultural Center, my son’s favorite stop. The center’s main initiative is to conserve the traditional arts, lifestyle and philosophy of the local Thai Chinese community. Immersed in serene surroundings, we explored two pavilions, a fish-filled pond and a Chinese garden named Garden of Thousand-year-old Morality, dotted along the way with Chinese auspicious plants. There, we sipped on traditional Chinese tea, prayed for our success and health and took in the history of the Chinese community in Udon Thani.  

The next morning, we visited the National Museum of Ban Chiang and an archaeological site where intricately red-painted ceramics, bronze artifacts and even human skeletons from 3500 BC were discovered. UNESCO granted it World Heritage status in 1992, recognizing it as a key prehistoric settlement in Southeast Asia that showcases “the earliest evidence of farming in the region and of the manufacture and use of metals.” 

The kids and I tried our hand at pottery resembling the ancient pieces. We spent the afternoon with the experienced potters at Ban Chiang Pottery Community learning to shape and paint our designs, the kids proving they were much more artistic than me. We kept our creative juices flowing with a visit to Sor Hong Dang, a Ban Chiang Weaving and indigo-dye factory with a 5000-year-old tradition. “Indigo plants are found in abundance along the Songkhram River’” explained Sukree. “After long fermentation, they produce beautiful hues of blue that are unique to Udon Thani—which you see in the prints we call mat mee.”  

The factory invites guests to try tie-dying, which allowed us to choose patterns and folding styles to create unique scarves. We submerged our knotted fabric into buckets of indigo dye, later revealing beautiful sky-colored masterpieces. While they dried in the warm sun, we were mesmerized by the weaving of loom machines operated by local craftswomen.  

After our amazing day of creativity, we made our way to Samuay and Sons, a top contemporary Isaan restaurant run by chef Weerawat Triyasenawat, who has been revolutionizing local food since 2014.  His modern approach has gained recognition from Asia’s 50 Best and the Michelin Guide—and he earned my teens approval too! While I enjoyed a stunning tasting menu, the kids chose massaman curry and a crispy rice patty with crab-miso paste. “Mom, can we come back for the tasting menu next time?” James asked, confirming we had struck culinary gold.  

With two days swiftly gone, I asked the kids about their favorite moments. For James, it was exploring the Thai Chinese Culture Center—and the food. “It’s not the ‘typical’ Thai food, and I think I like spicy food now.” Mila loved the vibrant yet relaxed vibe of the night markets. “Everyone sitting together, sharing food; it felt so alive.”  I wholeheartedly agree. Udon Thani has so much to offer for tourists of any age—and the Isaan way of life is something we could all embrace.  

BOOK YOUR STAY AT HOTEL MOCO VIA BOOKING.COM

BOOK YOUR STAY AT HOTEL MOCO VIA AGODA.COM

Hotel Moco 6 Thongyai Rd, Tambon Mak Khaeng, Udon Thani 41000
www.hotelmoco.com; Starting room rate for a Deluxe room USD $80 

Samuay and Sons 103/8 Srichomcheun Road, Tambon Mak Khaeng, Mueang Udon Thani District, Udon Thani 41000
Tasting menu from USD $70 per person; www.samuayandsons.com

Ban Chiang Pottery Community
www.facebook.com/banchiangpottry

(Sor Hong Dang) Ban Chiang Indigo tie dye 
www.facebook.com/sor.manyahong

Photos by Megan Leon, unless otherwise noted.

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