No Guts, No Glory—A Biome-Friendly Retreat at Chiva-Som in Thailand

SOMETIMES EXTERNAL INPUT IS the key to self-betterment. And I’m finally managing to absorb a few long-rejected home truths as I attend an initial health assessment with Chiva-Som wellness expert Cheewee ahead of a five-day gut health retreat—one of the newest offerings at the luxury health resort in Hua Hin, Thailand.  

“You are always going to have issues if you don’t work on addressing your alcohol and calorie intake,” she states while puncturing my waffle about the medicinal qualities of daily glasses of red wine and the immunity-boosting potential of rich cream sauces. 

Cheewee’s calm dose of reality marks the start of a necessary path for me. I have given my digestive system a pounding over the years thanks to an enthusiastic curry habit and a penchant for wine, beer and spirits. 

I’m not a stereotypical beer-swilling, fried breakfast-devouring Brit. I crave kimchi from time to time and even tried brewing kombucha during the COVID-19 lockdowns. But a tendency to stray from a righteous dining path heavy on fruit, vegetables, and fermented foods has caused poor digestion, diarrhea, and other disorders linked to gut imbalance.    

Help is at hand, courtesy of two of the newest retreat programs at Chiva-Som Thailand: Gut health and immune resilience. Over the next few days, I’ll reset my system and gain insight for the long term via a combination of exercise, meditation, detox supplements, nutritional information and lots of delicious, gut-healing cuisine.  

The urge to clear neural pathways and hotwire cerebral prowess is frequently examined in sci-fi movies and, increasingly, pursued in real life. Less explored, until recently, were ways to hack the enteric nervous system (ENS), the nerve cells that regulate human digestion. 

But increased focus on the ENS — dubbed the body’s “second brain” by scientists — has turned gut health into arguably the hottest wellness craze. With buzzwords such as probiotics, prebiotics, and fermentation trending on my social media feed, I’m determined to get my gut health journey underway. 

My Chiva-Som wellness mission gets off to a slightly unpromising start as I shake up my first supplement of the week. Quaffable cocktails are ten-a-penny amidst Hua Hin’s firmament of high-end resorts. Unfortunately for me, the Oriental Fibre Blend — the flagship gut-health concoction at Chiva-Som—is unlikely to earn any awards for mixology aesthetics.  

A combination of white sesame, flaxseed, dried coconut powder, soymilk powder, cinnamon, green tea, turmeric, and basil seed, it’s a keystone of the program, to be consumed twice daily before breakfast and after dinner. The only drawback is that its murky brownish hue gives it the appearance of water drawn from one of Bangkok’s downtown khlongs (canals). Thankfully, it tastes significantly better than it looks.  

It’s the opening salvo of a dietary program designed specifically for gut health retreat participants. At my pew of choice—facing out towards the lapping Gulf of Thailand waves—I’m presented with dishes that satisfy my palate and soothe my second brain.  

Tasty meals include yellow curry grouper with Indian spinach, miso-glazed salmon with watercress and quinoa, various clear bone broths and a probiotic sorbet made with kefir water, pineapple juice and aloe vera puree. Each meal is crafted to support the gut-brain connection, a relationship heavily influenced by the gut microbiome—trillions of bacteria that create a unique ecosystem within our digestive tract.  

These beneficial bacteria interact and influence the specialized enterochromaffin cells in the gut lining to produce serotonin, a neurotransmitter known as the “happy hormone,” closely linked to our mood. Research has found connections between gut health and mental health conditions such as depression and anxiety, underscoring the importance of what we eat. The so-called “food-mood connection” is more than just a catchy phrase; it’s a scientific reality.  

A retreat highlight is a visit to Chiva-Som’s organic farm on the outskirts of Hua Hin. Here, I get a first-hand look at how gut-friendly foods are grown, and I receive instructions on how to incorporate these ingredients into my diet back home. As I walk through rows of lush greenery, executive sous chef Danita Srisuwan points out various plants and explains their benefits: turmeric for its anti-inflammatory properties, basil for its soothing effect on the digestive system, and flax seeds for their fiber content. 

In addition to dietary guidance, Chiva-Som Thailand’s wellness retreats also typically offer a variety of therapies designed to support overall health. For my program, I experience an abdominal massage, a technique that targets the internal organs to promote better digestion and reduce bloating. This is complemented by a session of Chi Nei Tsang, a traditional Chinese massage that uses acupressure points in our belly to release emotional blockages and physical pain.  

But the retreat isn’t just about what goes into my body or the massages I receive. It’s also about what I do with my body. Daily yoga and Pilates sessions provide gentle, yet effective, ways to stimulate digestion and promote a sense of calm. Meditation, too, plays a crucial role in the retreat, offering a way to center the mind and reduce stress—both of which are vital for gut health. 

“Our gut system plays an immense role in our immune health and mental well-being,” says Chiva-Som resident naturopath Patience Sangwa, during a one-to-one consultation towards the conclusion of my retreat. “Up to 95% of the serotonin hormone is produced in our gut, so that gives you an idea of how maintaining good digestive health is key to a healthy existence. Self-care is an intrinsic part of wellness and there’s nothing more nurturing than inner happiness.” 

By the end of a week of exercise and nourishing food—and notably bereft of booze and heavy sauces—I feel rejuvenated, with a newfound respect for the second brain and its influence on both physical and mental health. With this feeling fresh in my mind, I resolve to address my alcohol intake and keep a closer watch on my diet. I can’t predict the future, of course, but I’ve got a strong gut feeling about my openness to change. 

Images courtesy of Chiva-Som Hua Hin, Thailand.

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