Pondicherry, or Puducherry, has been one of India’s top holiday destinations for its unique French culture, seaside vibe, and excellent dining options. It is one of the few places in the country under French colonial rule (until 1954), and many of its neighbourhoods still exhibit European influence. White Town, Pondicherry’s French colony, is where you can experience a slice of France even today.
Get started by understanding how French culture still thrives in the lifestyle of Pondicherry locals.
White Town, Pondicherry: Getting there and getting around the French colony
Chennai, the capital of Tamil Nadu, has the closest airport, 166 km away. Take a taxi to Pondicherry, which takes approximately four hours and has a mid-way stop at Mahabalipuram (it is worth staying a night or two).
For those coming from Bengaluru or Madurai, Pondicherry is 312 km and 332 km away, respectively. Once you’re in White Town, Pondicherry, walking and driving are the conventional ways to get around. But renting a bike or taking a cycle rickshaw ride is also a popular choice in and around Pondicherry’s French colony.
Best time to visit Pondicherry
Weather-wise, winter (October to March) is the most sensible time to visit to avoid the high heat and humidity. Avoid religious holidays and school vacation times as it’s a popular destination for pilgrims and tourists from near and far.
White Town, Pondicherry: The back story
From 1674, when the French East India Company set up a trading centre here, until 1954, when a referendum returned the territory to India, Pondicherry has mainly been imbued with the French way of life (with a few years in between with Dutch and British colonial powers gaining supremacy here). The older generation of the local Tamil population here also speaks fluent French, and you’ll be surprised when the humble coconut vendor on the street sounds almost posh Parisian!
As was typical of all colonial powers, a distinct divide was maintained between the native population and the powers that be. A canal still divides the city today, and it’s very clear where the erstwhile Native Town (on the western side) ends and White Town, Pondicherry, begins. The more politically correct and sweeter-sounding French Quarter features perfectly laid-out colonial buildings, perpendicular streets, and the wide Avenue Goubert along the seaside promenade. This is where the families of the French nobles and high-ranking officials once resided. Today, you can still see beautiful villas painted in bright shades amid tree-lined streets.
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Top 10 things to do in White Town, Pondicherry’s French colony
- Promenade by the sea: The 1.5 km long seaside promenade called the Avenue Goubert is lined with interesting points to see, such as the 29-metre-tall Old Lighthouse, designed by French engineer L Guerre in 1836, or the French War Memorial, built in 1937 to honour soldiers who sacrificed their lives during World War I. Don’t miss the statues on this stretch, from the commanding one of French governor Joseph Francois Dupleix (who headed Pondicherry from 1742 to 1754) to the one of Mahatma Gandhi, in black marble, which, at four feet, is said to be the tallest Gandhi statue in all of Asia.
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- The French connection: Exploring the lanes of White Town, Pondicherry, is our favourite thing to do here. You could sign up for a walking tour or one by bike to discover the colonial charms of this area. Chance upon interesting buildings such as the Ecole Francaise d’Extreme-Orient (EFEO), an institute devoted to Asian Studies, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus with its Gothic architecture and exquisite stained-glass panels, or the grand, 18th century Raj Niwas (it used to be the Governor’s palace that was constructed on the ruins of the Hotel de la Compagnie). Try to resist taking those picture-perfect shots against the bougainvillaea-covered brightly coloured homes for the ‘gram! Picturesque names that roll off the tongue – Rue Labourdonnais, Rue Baslieu, Rue Dumas – will give you a whiff of Paris as you pass by. There aren’t streetside cafes like in France, but you can stop by one of the many bakeries for fresh bread and good coffee.
Savour coffee, crepes, and cobblestones with our selection of the best and most beautiful cafes in Pondicherry.
- The muse, the museum: The Pondicherry Museum on St Louis Street boasts a collection of over 6500 artefacts snugly displayed in the two-storeyed colonial structure formerly known as the Law Building. Large stone statues and fossilised tree trunks can be seen in the foyer and courtyard, and French inscriptions on the building’s beautiful façade. Fondly called Pondy Museum by locals and tourists, its exhibits broadly cover three eras – the early period from the first century to the fourth century, the second when the Pallavas and Chola dynasties ruled, and the European era of French colonial rule — closed on Mondays and national holidays. Don’t miss the three antiquated means of transport displayed in the central space on the ground floor – a palanquin, a coach, and a Pousse-Pousse (an early rickshaw!).
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- To market, to market: The daily daytime market near Avenue Goubert is a vibrant vegetable and fruit market. Local artisans also create jewellery, cane baskets, and leatherware.
- Doll it up: The Jawahar Toy Museum has almost 150 dolls, miniature cars, toy trains, and other figurines. The dolls, which come from all over India, showcase diverse ethnic attire.
- Pretty cool: Visit an 18th-century villa to see the work of the Cluny Embroidery Centre, run by underprivileged women. The centre was started by Catholic nuns in 1829 in a house donated by a French woman. It still gives young girls and women a means to make a living through exquisite embroidery and needlework. You can also buy some of their creations.
- Worship or wonder: Pondicherry has many iconic religious structures worth seeing. The Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple, one of the oldest Hindu temples in Pondicherry, has a massive idol of Lord Ganesha on a golden chariot, vivid paintings and figurines ensconced inside impressive Dravidian-style architecture that dates back 500 years. The domed Meeran Mosque, or ‘Meerapalli’, was built 350 years ago by the Nawabs of Arcot in a unique blend of Gothic and Islamic styles of architecture. The Portuguese-style Immaculate Conception Church dates back three centuries (built in 1791) and is commonly known as ‘Samba Kovil’. Dress and behave appropriately when visiting these places of worship. Shoulders and knees must be covered, and disrespectful poses and selfies are discouraged.
Also read | Visit Kumbakonam, A Temple Town In India’s Tamil Nadu Brimming With Beauty & Spirituality
- Paper pamper: If you’re crazy about stationery, even in the digital age like ours, you’ll bring home reams of handmade paper from White Town, Pondicherry. We love that all the shops adhere to a high standard of quality and design. The sheer variety is phenomenal in notebooks incorporating pressed flowers and leaves and letter paper in gorgeous hues from vegetable dyes. For those who don’t put pen to paper anymore, handmade paper is used as pretty paper lanterns, lamps, and all kinds of decorative objects that will add oomph to your home. Insider tip: Book a guided tour of the handmade paper factory on SV Patel Salai to see how the paper is made from 100 per cent cotton and to buy in bulk from their showroom for a fraction of the price you’d pay at the fancy stores.
- Spiritual pursuits: The Sri Aurobindo Ashram, founded in 1926 by the progressive thinker, nationalist and creator of Integral Yoga Sri Aurobindo and run with the help of his spiritual collaborator, the Mother, has had people visiting from across the world. The Ashram is a vibrant place where you can work as an offering to the divine in one or another of its numerous departments. While inner transformation is the ultimate goal, there are no obligatory practices, rituals, compulsory meditations, or systematic instructions in yoga here; there is just the freedom to determine the course and pace of your spiritual discipline according to the path that best suits your nature. Insider tip: Book a stay at the Ashram’s Park Guesthouse in the White Town French colony, Pondicherry. Its brilliant location at one end of the Promenade offers unrestrained views of the Bay of Bengal. At the same time, its serene garden, calming seafront café, and spartan rooms with names like Joy, Freedom, Love, etc. offer a dose of delightful spirituality in the most unencumbered way.
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- Have a ball! What was the preserve of placid pensioners on our first visit to this place 15 years ago has become quite the rage with Pondicherry youngsters. We watched a bunch of them playing Petanque with a lot of well-articulated passion in one of the public parks off the Beach Road, just as we had seen people play with the metal balls called Boules in the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris a few years ago. The game originated in Provence but was brought to India by returning Pondicherry citizens conscripted into the French Army during the World Wars. Insider tip: Don’t just barge in and expect to be allowed to join the game. Watch, understand the rules, and wait until a game ends before you request to play the next one.
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Exploring White Town beyond the French colony
International vibe
The Sri Aurobindo Ashram’s Visitors Centre and impressive meditation dome, the Matrimandir, are not in the French Quarter but in Auroville, a township founded by The Mother in 1968 to promote global unity. It is just 14 km from Pondicherry. People of almost 200 different nationalities thrive in this tranquil spot.
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Historic preservation
While we love everything about the French Quarter, visiting the home of Ananda Rangapillai in the ‘native town’ is an enriching experience. This Tamil merchant, who worked for the French East India Company under the famous French Governor Joseph Francois Dupleix, wrote diligently in his journals about life in colonial Pondicherry between 1736 and 1761, which later became a helpful resource and record of the period. His house, built in 1735, is well preserved even today, and you’ll get to see some aspects of the beautiful traditional architecture of the region that are blended with European styles. Only the ground floor, with its distinctive Chettinad-style wooden pillars, is open to visitors. But impress one of the Rangapillai descendants, and you might get a chance to be whisked upstairs to see the rooms that overlook the open-to-sky central courtyard.
Natural paradise
The isolated Paradise Beach in Chunnambar, with fine golden sand and a relaxed vibe, is a ferry ride away from the city. Mangroves line the route, and many varieties of birds flock here.
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Ancient arc
Arikamedu is the only Indian site with surviving remnants of Roman inhabitation. On the banks of the Ariyankuppam River, it dates back to the period between 300 BC and 1800 AD. A trade centre from the early ages, it has seen the rule of Romans, Cholas, and the French. To see the original artefacts excavated from the site, visit the Pondicherry Museum.
What to shop for when here?
Shops abound, and so do your options for spreading the largesse. Decorative items made from handmade paper and crochet, incense, and the summery creations of independent fashion designers are among the best local things to shop for in White Town, Pondicherry. Explore more with our guide to shopping in Pondicherry, including where and what to buy.
Best hotels in White Town, Pondicherry’s French colony
Palais de Mahe, Maison Perumal, The Promenade, Grand Hotel d’Europe, La Villa, Villa du Ocean, Dune L’Orient, La Cedille, etc are some of the best hotels in White Town, Pondicherry.
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White Town nightlife
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Rooftop bars are usually the most sought-after, and there’s no shortage of good ones in White Town, Pondicherry. Le Club on Dumas Street is in a charming French villa. Bay of Buddha is on the rooftop of the most wonderfully located The Promenade Hotel on the seafront. L’Aqua inside Ajanta Sea View Hotel and Toxic in Hotel Atithi also have the advantage of vantage. Meanwhile, The Promenade also boasts a stylish Storytellers’ Bar. L’e Space, Asian House, and Pub Zipper are other great places to drink and have a party vibe. But don’t forget that with an 11 pm deadline for loud music, it’s best to head to the clubs in White Town, Pondicherry, much earlier.
Best restaurants and cafes in White Town, Pondicherry
There are scores of fantastic options for a bite throughout the French colony of White Town in Pondicherry. Coromandel Cafe, on Romain Rolland Street, is undoubtedly one of the hottest tickets on the block, with aesthetic décor and equally appealing food. Italian, Middle Eastern, and some clever fusion- they do it all well. The excellent Eat My Cake is down the same street, with French bread and pastries and an a la carte menu. Cheery and cosy? Choose Cafe Des Arts on Suffren Street. Serenity and soul food? Try Villa Shanti along the same street. Elegant and eclectic? Savour Le Dupleix inside the heritage hotel of the same name, preceded by a decadent drink at the Governor’s Lounge Bar. Greet and meat? Les Saveurs on Dumas Street does everything from Croque monsieurs to steak with an atmosphere. Les Alizes inside Palais de Mahe – CGH Earth does some legendary seafood in its colonial rooftop setting.
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(Feature image credit: Abhinay Omkar/Flickr)
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The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
Coromandel Cafe, Les Saveurs, and Les Alizes, are some of the most romantic fine-dining restaurants in White Town, Pondicherry.
Although the streets are quite narrow, there are a few places where you can park. There’s also the Mangalam parking yard in South Street on the outskirts of White Town, Pondicherry.
Spending time on the seaside promenade is the most popular pastime for families.
You can try French and Tamil cuisines here, apart from the usual pan-Indian, Asian, Chinese, and Continental at various restaurants and cafes in White Town, Pondicherry.
Le Club, L’Aqua, Toxic, and Pub Zipper are some of the party places here. Although rooftop and beach parties, both private and commercial, are where the clued-in crowd goes.
Petanque is a French-origin game that you could try your hand at.
Written By
Priya Pathiyan
A chronicler of all things culture and lifestyle. Priya\'s forte is fresh perspective on everything. ..Read More
