Long considered a quick stopover on the way to the glamorous Amalfi Coast, Capri, or Ischia, Naples (Napoli in Italian) is garnering more attention these days. The city looms large in literature and film, as the setting for Parthenope, a new film by award-winning director Paolo Sorrentino, the hit Italian TV show Mare Fuori, and Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels, which were adapted into the HBO series My Brilliant Friend. It’s no wonder — Naples is often called Italy’s most operatic city, where splendour and squalor have long existed in equal measure.
Naples is nothing if not a sensory overload. Scooters zip through the streets, vendors loudly hawk their wares at outdoor markets, street musicians play old songs, the smell of pizza and all kinds of fried delicacies wafts in the air, and laundry hanging off of balconies flutters in the wind. The grand piazzas, elegant cafes, monumental palaces, and incredible art contrast with graffiti-covered back alleys and grit. The city is also a pilgrimage site for pizza lovers, who will find everything from old-school joints that only sling margherita and marinara pizzas to next-gen pizzerias that elevate the humble pie to gourmet heights.
As a Rome-based journalist, I have passed through Naples many times, but only recently visited for a long weekend in an effort to get under the city’s skin. I asked for tips from a couple of experts: Guido Fiorentino, owner of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento (who has a home in Naples), and Fulvio De Bonis, co-founder of Imago Artis Travel, a high-end tour operator. Read on to discover why Naples deserves a visit and everything you need to know to plan a trip there.
Naples, Italy
- For an artful stay, book a room at Atelier Inès Art & Suites.
- See incredibly well-preserved frescoes and mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli.
- Sip creative cocktails in an elegant speakeasy at L’Antiquario, considered one of the world’s best bars.
- Go all in and do the pizza tasting menu at Concettina Ai Tre Santi run by talented young pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva.
- Explore the Decumani (the historic centre of the city) and stroll along the famed street known as Spaccanapoli, which is lined with shops, street food vendors, bars, and restaurants.
Best Hotels & resorts
Atelier Inès Art & Suites
This intimate bed-and-breakfast claims to be the only hotel attached to a working art studio — and it’s full of art and design elements by owners Inès Sellami, her husband Vincenzo Oste, and his late father Annibale Oste. Set in a 1947 building in a peaceful courtyard just off a busy street in Rione Sanità, it has just nine rooms, a breakfast room, and a wine cellar. But it’s the warm hospitality from Inès and Vincenzo that set this place apart.
Book your stay at Atelier Inès Arts & Suites via Booking.com
Book your stay at Atelier Ines Home Gallery via Agoda.com
Grand Hotel Parker’s
Naples’ historic grand dame occupies a privileged position on a hill in the elegant Chiaia neighbourhood, with sweeping views of the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius in the distance. Opened in 1870, it has hosted illustrious travellers like Virginia Woolf and Oscar Wilde and is home to the city’s only restaurant with two Michelin stars.
Book your stay at Grand Hotel Parker's via Booking.com
Book your stay at Grand Hotel Parker's via Agoda.com
Costantinopoli 104
“In the heart of Naples’ Centro Storico stands the 18th-century neoclassical villa housing hotel Costantinopoli 104, a contemporary retreat that perfectly balances modern minimalism with the villa’s historic grandeur,” says Fiorentino. “Its centrepiece is a serene courtyard garden, home to one of the few swimming pools in historic Naples, overlooked by a striking Liberty-style stained-glass window.”
Book your stay at Costantinopoli 104 via Booking.com
Book your stay at Costantinopoli 104 via Agoda.com
Best things to do
Gaze at ancient treasures at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli
Created by the royal Bourbon dynasty, the National Archeological Museum of Naples is among the world’s most important archaeological museums. Inside you’ll find splendid frescoes and mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum, the Farnese collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures, and even a “secret room” containing ancient erotic art.
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See an opera at the Teatro di San Carlo
“The Teatro di San Carlo, a well-preserved Baroque theatre, opened in 1737 and is the world’s oldest operating opera theatre,” explains Fiorentino, calling it a must-visit destination. “It is renowned for its exceptional acoustics, and it remains a premier venue for opera and symphonic performances.”
Gape at artistic masterpieces at the Museo e Bosco Reale di Capodimonte
When it comes to extravagant displays of wealth, it’s hard to beat the Bourbon dynasty’s former hunting lodge, which comprises 124 galleries displaying masterpieces by Titian, Raphael, Michelangelo, Caravaggio, and Botticelli, just to name a few. You could spend the better part of a whole day visiting the palace and wandering in the manicured gardens.
See the Veiled Christ at the Cappella Sansevero
“The Cappella Sansevero, situated in the heart of Naples, is renowned for housing the Cristo Velato (Veiled Christ), a breathtaking marble sculpture crafted by Giuseppe Sanmartino in 1753,” says Fiorentino. “Widely regarded as one of the world’s most extraordinary works of art, the sculpture captures Christ’s suffering beneath a veil so lifelike that it’s almost impossible to believe it is carved entirely from marble.”
Admire the majolica tiles at the peaceful Cloister of Santa Chiara
Just off the bustling street known as Spaccanapoli, which runs through the historic centre, this peaceful cloister feels like a tranquil oasis removed from the chaos. A series of columns and benches is decorated with beautiful majolica tiles hand-painted in the 18th century, which depict fruits, flowers, and scenes from the Bay of Naples.
Best shopping
E. Marinella
Naples is known as a city of tailors, and one of the best is E. Marinella, a family-run shop that opened in 1914. Though the brand now has stores in Rome, Milan, Turin, London, and Tokyo, it all started in the historic shop in Chiaia.
M. Cilento & Fratello 1780
“This family-run shop specialises in high-quality items and offers bespoke tailoring services for men, including suits, shirts, and even shoes,” says Fiorentino. “They also boast a wide selection of products for both men and women, ensuring something for everyone.”
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Idem
“Here, you’ll discover a wide selection of leather goods crafted by local artisans, offering exceptional pieces for both men and women,” Fiorentino notes. At this family-run studio, every piece is entirely handmade and can be customised to your taste.
Best nightlife
L’Antiquario
One of just a handful of bars in Italy on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, this elegant drinking den serves creative cocktails, including a Negroni flight served on a rotating carousel. Fiorentino recommends it, saying, “This speakeasy bar, nestled in the heart of the shopping district, offers exceptional cocktails that are sure to impress.”
NIQ Rooftop at the Bonart Hotel
“This bar features a modern design with an elegant lounge area, offering breathtaking views of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and the Gulf,” Fiorentino says. Expect international classics and twists on them, like their take on a French 75 with Tanqueray 10, lemon juice, Italicus, and Prosecco.
Best restaurants
Mimì alla Ferrovia
Opened in 1943, this family-run trattoria near Napoli Centrale train station has drawn celebrities including filmmaker Federico Fellini and the actor known as Totò. Come for the lively atmosphere and Neapolitan classics like grilled peppers stuffed with ham, cheese, and bread or pasta with potatoes and provola cheese.
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Concettina Ai Tre Santi
Young pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva transformed his family’s historic pizzeria in Rione Sanità into a buzzy destination for pizza aficionados and gained a bit of a cult following in the process. His upside-down version of a pizza montanara (fried pizza) is a must-try item — it can be ordered a la carte or as part of a pizza-tasting menu.
Ristorante Palazzo Petrucci
“This fine dining restaurant and pizzeria is unique in Naples, offering the rare opportunity to enjoy a meal with direct access to the beach,” Fiorentino explains. Five- or six-course tasting menus showcase local ingredients and recipes like fish soup and pastiera (an orange blossom-scented ricotta pie).
Gran Caffè Gambrinus
This 19th-century institution just off the elegant Piazza del Plebiscito is a Belle Epoque masterpiece where white-jacketed waiters serve fancy espresso drinks and pastries to well-dressed guests. Long considered the meeting place for the elite, it has hosted illustrious guests including Empress Sisi, poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, Oscar Wilde, and Ernest Hemingway.
Ristorante Rosiello
“This restaurant is situated in one of the finest residential neighbourhoods, offering terraces with stunning views of the Gulf of Naples. From here, you can admire the majestic Mount Vesuvius, the Sorrento Peninsula, and the enchanting island of Capri,” says Fiorentino, who counts this as one of his favourite places in the city for lunch.
Neighbourhoods to visit
Decumani
“Naples’ historic centre, known as the Decumani, is a maze of ancient Greco-Roman streets dating back nearly 3,000 years. At its heart lies Spaccanapoli, the bustling main street lined with coffee bars, artisan shops, historic mansions, and iconic pizzerias,” Fiorentino explains. “Highlights include the Church of Santa Chiara with its ornate cloister and the MADRE contemporary art museum, featuring works by Jeff Koons, Anish Kapoor, and Andy Warhol. For a moment of calm, stop at Caffè Letterario Intra Moenia in Piazza Bellini, a favourite bohemian spot.”
Rione Sanità
“This is the most authentic and local neighbourhood in Naples, where you can breathe the true soul of the city,” says De Bonis. “It is an explosion of life, among Baroque buildings, murals, ateliers, artisan workshops, clothes hanging from the windows, and a rich and fun food scene, with stalls and vendors who try to attract you by shouting in dialect.”
Vomero
“Vomero is the hilly, chic, and bourgeois neighbourhood, where you can enjoy long walks among shops, green areas, and Art Nouveau buildings. Reach it by taking the local funicular,” says De Bonis. “Its centre is Piazza Vanvitelli, whose symbol is a clock dating back to the 1930s, and from here, walking up stairs and ramps, in 10 minutes you can reach the San Martino viewpoint, one of the most beautiful panoramic points of the city.”
Chiaia
“Chiaia is one of Naples’ most upscale neighbourhoods, celebrated for its picturesque waterfront promenade offering breathtaking views of the Gulf of Naples. Along this scenic stretch, you’ll discover a vibrant culinary scene, blending traditional Neapolitan flavours with international gastronomy,” notes Fiorentino. “The neighbourhood is also home to the prestigious Museo Pignatelli, an exquisite gallery showcasing fine and decorative arts, housed in a 19th-century villa. Additionally, Chiaia boasts a stylish shopping district, renowned for its high-end boutiques and designer stores, making it a hub for both culture and luxury.”
Best time to visit
According to Fiorentino, the best times to visit are spring or fall, but December is also a special time of year in Naples because the city goes all out for the holidays. It’s best to avoid the summer months when the heat becomes oppressive and Neapolitans flee to the beaches and islands.
How to get there
Naples is served by Naples-Capodichino International Airport (NAP), which is only about three miles (4 km) outside of the city centre. It’s also a major hub for cruise ships, which dock at the Stazione Marittima on the waterfront. Naples is well connected with the rest of Italy via rail. The main train station is called Napoli Centrale.
How to get around
The historic centre of Naples is very walkable, with many streets that are pedestrianised or have limited traffic zones, but beware of cars and scooters on narrow roads. Do not attempt to drive here unless you have nerves of steel.
Public transit: ANM runs the city’s metro, buses, and funiculars. As De Bonis notes, “The Art Stations have transformed the Naples Metro into one of the most beautiful in the world.” Of particular note is the Toledo metro stop on Line 1. Tickets cost EUR 1.30 (HKD 10.68) for a single ride on the buses and funiculars and EUR 1.50 (HKD 12) for the metro.
Taxi: The main taxi companies are Radio Taxi Napoli (+39 081 556444) and Radio Taxi Parthenope (+39 081 0101). Expect a taxi from the airport to the city centre to cost EUR 21-30 (HKD 172-246), plus possible surcharges for luggage.
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All currency conversions were done at the time of writing
(Feature Image Credit: Amanda Blackard/Travel + Leisure)
This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com
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