“And we’ll never be royals. It don’t run in our blood. That kind of luxe just ain’t for us. We crave a different kind of buzz…”
THE VOICE OF THE MOST FAMOUS pop star to have come out of New Zealand serenades us somewhat ironically as we step out from a sleek Range Rover on arrival at Rosewood Matakauri, an exclusive 16-suite property just outside Queenstown in the country’s South Island. “Royal” perhaps not, but in addition to “lush,” the words “luxe” and “buzzy” perfectly describe the start of our two-week Kiwi travel odyssey—with all due apologies to Lorde. The sweet smell of burning firewood mingles with lavender and, facing mighty Mount Cecil on the gentle waters of Lake Wakatipu, we note that this is an unreally beautiful location. Friendly bees pollinating the pristine landscape, a dazzling array of birdlife, and curious lizards add to the sense that we’ve fallen into a little corner of the Garden of Eden.
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Stays at Rosewood Matakauri show off the region visually, culinarily, and design-wise: a grand lakeview suite courtyard. Courtesy of Rosewood Matakauri
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Aperitif hour complete with an original Picasso tapestry. Photo by Chris Dwyer
Matakauri is one of three famed Kiwi lodges, alongside Kauri Cliffs and Cape Kidnappers, recently acquired by the Hong Kong-based luxury brand Rosewood, giving them their first footprints in Oceania. Visiting two of them, alongside two iconic independent lodges in the form of Flockhill and Otahuna, allowed me and my wife to head—more or less—all the way from the bottom tip of New Zealand’s South Island to the top of the North Island. Two previous trips to New Zealand had seriously wowed us, but both were only to the North Island, to the great amusement of my Kiwi mates, one of whom said, “Going to New Zealand and not going to the South Island is like going to New York and not going to Manhattan.” His not-so-subtle point became crystal clear as we checked in to Rosewood Matakauri.
With roaring fires at the touch of a button and freshly baked cookies on demand, never wanting to leave the hotel quickly became a distinct possibility, but eventually we pulled ourselves away from their spa treatments, hyper-local cuisine and warm Kiwi service to discover why this corner of the South Island is one of the world’s most magnificent places to escape reality.
WHILE THE WEATHER IN AUTUMN can generously be described as “unpredictable”—local weather forecasts even suggest how many layers you should wear—when the sun shines from a clear blue sky, your jaw ends up aching from dropping so much.
Nowhere was this truer than at Milford Sound, a remote eastern coastal fjord that receives more annual rainfall than the Amazon rainforest and has recorded wind gusts over 325 kilometres (200 miles) per hour. Getting there involves a five-hour drive from Queenstown, or just a 40-minute flight with Glenorchy Air, a trip that quickly etched itself in our memory as one of the world’s great travel experiences. Their state-of-the-art small aircraft allow hugely experienced local pilots to show why they love their homeland so much, as they proudly skirt snow-capped mountain tops, soar over azure alpine lakes and let us gaze, mouths agape, at the multitude of landscapes unfolding beneath us.
Looping briefly over the white-topped crests of the Tasman Sea, we descended through vertiginous forest-covered mountains where waterfalls only added to the drama. It was difficult not to hum the Jurassic Park theme on the short walk to a jetty for a 90-minute boat trip around the fjord’s rainbow- inducing cascades that offered what the captain called “a complimentary glacial facial.” After gazing up at 500-million-year-old rock faces, we were lucky to see dolphins frolicking, doubtless thrilled to call this magical place home.
A different flight path back to Queenstown brought more natural wonders across the 1.2 million hectares of Fjordland National Park, New Zealand’s largest, and somewhere that Taylor Swift, sundry Bollywood flicks, and Lord of the Rings, natch, have all immortalised on screen.
Aside from jumping out of planes or from bridges (this is the birthplace of bungee), other Queenstown attractions include the “Lady of the Lake,” TSS Earnslaw, a steamer built in 1912 that gently plies the waters of magnificent Lake Wakatipu. Skyline is a cable car with views to beat them all—at least on clear days—and Driftaway lets you rent a lakeside hot tub and crack open a bottle of wine.
Speaking of grapes, the Otago region is an oenophile’s paradise and Queenstown Wine Trail runs a great five-hour tour of three wineries, highlighting 15 wines in total; handily, lunch was included. From the all-female winemaking team at Coal Pit to the 88-year-old winemaker and “Wild Irishman” Alan Brady at Kinross, the local characters rivalled their vintages for diversity and depth.
Eats-wise in Queenstown, for brunch we loved the über-relaxed local favourite of Bespoke Kitchen, then for dinner, Sherwood served up fantastic small plates celebrating local produce with brilliant local Pinots to match. Literally everyone tells you to hit up Ferg Burger, but if, like us, you can’t handle the epic wait, then their bakery next door does great pies.
All too soon, Queenstown Airport came calling for a swift flight up to Christchurch and two more truly stellar luxury lodges.
SOME PLACES BOAST LANDSCAPES that words simply fail to do justice, so it’s handy that none other than the Dalai Lama reached Castle Hill—or Kura Tāwhiti in Māori—long before us. He called this spectacular spot, sitting in the majestic Southern Alps roughly midway between the South Island’s east and west coasts, a “spiritual centre of the universe.” Talk about an endorsement.
A-listers reach the surreal beauty of this region and its truly world-class resort, Flockhill, by swooping in by chopper. Mere mortals take the famous TranzAlpine train, which stops at nearby Arthur’s Pass, or drive 90 minutes from Christchurch along The Great Alpine Highway, memorably described by the New Zealand Automobile Association as a “transcendent, transformational traverse.”
Flockhill is a vast 14,500-hectare working sheep station, in operation since 1857, which also happens to feature a lodge renowned as one of the southern hemisphere’s finest places to stay. With just four king suites sleeping eight guests in total, it can only be booked in its entirety, and costs from NZ$16,000 per night in low season—around US$9,500.
But oh, what a night. The lodge’s sleek modern lines blend seamlessly into the landscape, while suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows like cinema screens with a constantly changing panorama, most notably at sunrise, when the sky wakes in stunning hues of pink and magenta.
Brilliant experiences abound at Flockhill. Lodge guide Tim Heine took us off road in a Land Rover, before a gentle 45-minute hike clambering through otherworldly limestone boulders and rock formations.
He underlined how this powerful, mystical spot was long a sacred Māori space, used for ceremonial purposes. They would collect the beautiful greenstone known as pounamu and carve it into tools, jewellery, talismans and even weapons in the hunt for moa, the now-extinct flightless bird that was the size of an emu.
Topped with what looks like a stone sombrero, one particularly striking monolith was used by Māori as a calendar stone to align with the constellations. Over the years, woven Māori food baskets have been found here, as have seashells and even shark teeth, as this ancient land was once a seabed.
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The author and his wife, Pat, among the boulders of Flockhill Lodge. Photo by Chris Dwyer
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Curious sheep at Flockhill Lodge (left); this striking monolith near Flockhill was used by ancient Māori as a calendar stone (right). Photos by Chris Dwyer
Once at the crest of the hill, we were rewarded with awe-inspiring 360-degree views, including over an escarpment where The Chronicles of Narnia was shot. We were the only souls as far as the eye could see, thanks to Flockhill being a private estate, as we sat drinking fresh peppermint tea from a Thermos.
Back at the lodge, covers retracted on the pool and hot tub at the touch of a button, we were soon blissfully floating in warm waters, overlooking the triangular mountains of Castle Hill, before fireside aperitifs and canapés.
Food was sorted by simply chatting with the brilliant on-property chef, Craig Martin. All his dishes are crafted from the wonderful bounty of local produce, so we ripped warm sourdough made with Manuka honey (“you can call me queen bee”) and dipped it in olive oil from Robinsons Bay. Then grain-fed wagyu with onion soubise, black garlic purée and soy-roasted mushrooms with chef’s own XO sauce, made with abalone—known as paua in New Zealand—automatically became one of the very best plates in our memories.
It’s definitely worth keeping an eye on Flockhill’s next project, a game-changing new restaurant called Sugarloaf opening in December, where renowned chef Taylor Cullen will craft open-flame dining, again from the finest sustainable, seasonal produce.
NEXT UP WAS OTAHUNA LODGE, a sublimely elegant retreat outside the historic city of Christchurch that must rank as New Zealand’s most charming place to stay.
Built as a private home in 1895 by Sir Heaton Rhodes, one of New Zealand’s most important figures, it is a sublime example of Arts and Crafts architecture, handmade from a range of woods. It’s most well- known for its gardens and flowers, including 30,000 trees and one million—yes, million—daffodils that carpet a vast field that skirts the property’s driveway in a springtime explosion of colour.
Rhodes was a friend to the British royal family and Otahuna has hosted many visiting aristocrats and dignitaries over the decades, most notably King Charles and Queen Camilla. They have stayed twice, using the house and grounds as a break from their hectic schedules. (Yes, sometimes we can be royals.)
Our incredible Rhodes Suite boasted its own turret, roaring fireplace, sheepskin rugs laid by the bed at turndown… and no TV, thankfully. While nearby experiences include whale watching and hiking, staying put to truly relax was a joy, especially with croquet and cornhole, massages, and wandering the grounds with head gardener Steve.
He took us to “Oinkahuna,” home to their three Berkshire Tamworth pigs, then showed us saffron and herb gardens, and fruit trees groaning under the weight of produce including pears and feijoas. He also shared tips on wildflowers and growing vegetables, while lady luck shone as we got to meet Otahuna’s fabulous Tilly, a West Highland white terrier.
The garden and farm provide the vast majority of produce served in Otahuna’s impossibly romantic candlelit dining room, one that boasts original gilded wallpaper that Rhodes bought back from Japan, where he honeymooned.
Highlights from chef Jimmy Mcintyre included a sensational cauliflower velouté, somehow made without cream, under a seared scallop. Otahuna lamb—also raised on property—came with potato and rosemary gnocchi and a Pinot jus so good you’d fancy bathing in it. And trust me when I say their full English breakfast is a non-negotiable. What a way to start the day.
NORTHLAND IS THE APPROPRIATELY named uppermost tip of New Zealand, a 40-minute flight from Auckland. That’s where we were headed for the final leg of our Kiwi extravaganza. More shades of green await in this largely agricultural, sparsely populated part of the country, nowhere more so than at another of the newly acquired Rosewood properties, Kauri Cliffs.
Kauri Cliffs is a name to make anyone who has ever swung a golf club green with envy, thanks to its course that is consistently named as one of the finest on the planet. Rolling fairways are the definition of pristine, putting greens look like they’ve been ironed, while some holes are so stunning that you have even the perfect excuse for shanking your shot—just blame the setting.
While the majority of guests are golfers, there’s still more than enough to keep non-swingers entertained, not least the dramatic coastline and its sweeping panoramas of the Pacific.
Residences at Kauri range from one-bedroom villas to four-bedroom houses, constructed from native timber weatherboard to meld seamlessly into the landscape. These single-story homes come in at an astonishing 370 square metres, with interiors the work of local designer Virginia Fisher. They blend antiques and artifacts with driftwood and artworks made from seashells, the whole ensemble featuring Kauri’s own blue colour palette.
The mix of Cape Cod and Pebble Beach vibes come, in part, because Kauri Cliffs’ founder was an American hedge fund billionaire known as “The Wizard of Wall Street,” Julian Robertson. He bought the property, added the course over four years, but also kept the original sheep-and-cattle farm that provides the backdrop for one of their newest guest experiences.
You jump in a brand-new Polaris—an all-terrain vehicle, the very first of its kind in New Zealand—as guest experiences manager Michael makes light work of the undulating ground, gliding effortlessly through fields and up steep tracks as bemused Charolais and Angus cattle look on.
Our destination was a hilltop affording astonishing 360-degree views over the entire resort, the ancient volcanic plateau bordering it, and the coastline and more than 100 flecks of land that give the area its name: The Bay of Islands.
Michael explained the region’s history in fascinating detail, revealing this particular summit’s role in both Māori and Polynesian culture. Ancient Polynesians who arrived around the year 1200— including Michael’s ancestors—would use it as a navigation point as they travelled vast distances across the Pacific, including from Rapa Nui, better known as Easter Island. They also planted kūmara on the hilltop: sweet potato which carried important symbolism via its association with a god called Rongo.
On the way back to Kauri Cliffs, we stopped to walk through a forest and pay our respects to a particularly imperious 800-year-old kauri tree, one of only a few to remain from the early twentieth century, when the region was almost completely logged.
As pheasants and tui birds serenaded us, we learned how Māori legend said that kauri trees were the legs of Tāne, the forest god.
It was a fitting place to end our trip, where New Zealand’s life-changing landscapes, rich and ancient culture, innately warm hospitality, and far more than 50 shades of green combine to dazzling effect.
The Details
GETTING THERE
International carriers flying to Lorde’s homeland include Air New Zealand, Qantas, Qatar Airways and Emirates. Air New Zealand flies domestically to destinations including Queenstown, Christchurch and Kerikeri, the airport for Northland, which is possibly the most relaxed you’ll ever experience.
WHERE TO STAY
Rosewood Matakauri rosewoodhotels.com/en/matakauri; rates from US$1,750 from May through September
Flockhill Lodge flockhillnz.com; rates from US$8,300 per night from June through September; exclusive-use buy-out required
Otahuna Lodge relaischateaux.com/gb/hotel/otahuna-lodge; rates from US$1,450 (from US$1,700 for the Rhodes Suite, where we stayed) per night inclusive of: pre-dinner drinks with canapés, a four-course set- menu dinner with matched wine pairings, continental and/or full cooked breakfast, and laundry service
Rosewood Kauri Cliffs rosewoodhotels.com/en/kauri-cliffs; rates from US$1,900 during the shoulder seasons of April, and October through December
BOOK YOUR STAY AT ROSEWOOD MATAKAURI VIA BOOKING.COM
BOOK YOUR STAY AT ROSEWOOD KAURI CLIFFS VIA BOOKING.COM
WHAT TO DO
Glenorchy Air On a clear day, a life-changing travel experience to destinations including Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, Mount Cook and more. Absolutely worth the investment. glenorchyair.co.nz
Queenstown Wine Trail A brilliant way to discover the Otago wine region, meet new friends and taste some beauties. queenstownwinetrail.co.nz
TSS Earnslaw All aboard a true maritime icon that also offers a barbecue lunch option seen as one of the best deals in Queenstown. queenstownnz.co.nz/listing/realnz/1255
Sherwood restaurant Buzzing and unfailingly delicious, but out towards the airport, so take an Uber to enjoy their extensive local wine list. sherwoodqueenstown.nz
Car rental Driving yourself is a Kiwi-holiday requirement. queenstownairport.co.nz/transport/rental-cars
Lede and hero image by Chris Dwyer.
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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