No Dolphins Were Harmed in This Visit to the New Ritz-Carlton Maldives Fari Islands

TWO WEEKS PRIOR TO my first trip to the Maldives, the For You recommendations on my Insta were already popping up with sun-kissed and scene-y beach posts from people I’m supposed to know but haven’t connected with. Perhaps this was a sign from the universe that my upcoming trip to one of the most stylish new luxury Maldives resorts was of the ‘once in a lifetime’ category. Or that the new Meta AI is getting pretty good at its job.  

On the flight over, as I was cozily tucked into seat 63F (T+L tip: Middle row aisle seats on Singapore Airlines’ A350s have better legroom than the window ones), my Maldivian experience seemingly kickstarted itself. Time itself seemed to be moving quicker. Before I knew it, an hour turned into four, and we landed in the smallest country in Asia. This was followed by a quick switch from aircraft (avoiding Australians and their surfboards) to luxury water vessel, with a gloriously cushy 50-minute speedboat ride, bopping in rhythm to the Indian Ocean. Soon enough, in the distance appeared my home for the next four days: The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands.  

One of the few Ritz-Carlton resorts without a physical reception area, this 100-villa luxury Maldives resort sports a minimalist circular theme, designed by the master of minimalism himself, Kerry Hill (in fact, it was his last project). The resort’s compass-shaped spa is already one of the Maldives’ most standout landmarks, a curious sight from its ubiquitous seaplanes, constructed as an addition to the man-made Fari Island.  

At the boat pier I’m met by Ford, my aris meeha—the Maldivian version of Ritz-Carlton’s standard-issue butlers—who came to arrange arrival formalities in my room. Ford’s quick eyes noticed that one of my linen pants had some stains (from dry-skin moisturizer, in case anyone’s wondering), so he sent them off to be laundered. This was the start of quite a few surprise-me moments throughout my stay.  

Ford came through again when I realized I’d forgotten to bring a stash of my usual coffee. After years of traveling, I know that good coffee (never Nespresso in aluminum capsules) is a necessity to get through the ungodly early morning and midnight flights. While there wasn’t a Maldivian version of a good arabica roast, Ford, upon my request, brings to my villa a jar of trusty Nescafé one morning. I’m guessing it would probably be the first and last time any guest asks for Nescafé.  

Besides the coffee drama, my villa was a delightful peek into the design mind of Kerry Hill and his team. In this minimalist new luxury resort, your villa features sleek surfaces of polished granite in caramel-meets-enamel hues and pale bleached wood on the crescent-shaped outdoor pool-slash-terrace. The interior space flows seamlessly, with an open sleeping-living area and a double sink configuration with ample space to put items. All in all, the in-room experience is hard to beat.  

Soon, it was time to check out the resort’s beach and pool scene. While chatting, Widi, one of the bartenders at Eau Bar gave me a quick cocktail class involving strawberry rosé, pineapple extract and strawberry water—a refreshing island tipple for a scorching afternoon (though not necessarily a drink one could make at home, without turning the kitchen counter into a mini cocktail laboratory.)  

Things were more straightforward at the resort’s spa. On the cards was a group massage class that turned out to be 45 minutes of laughing and giggling with our group of six guests from Russia, Japan and the United States. We were all strangers to start, but quickly found a jokey rhythm, in between learning how to treat stiff and gnarly upper backs.  

We were taught some of the spa world’s most essential skills, like the differences in massage techniques. There was kneading, “like when making bread”: releasing tension with finger and thumb (great at taking it out on your non-compliant significant other). We also got a deeper understanding of the all-important clavicle, scapular and neck connection. Then there was the ‘How to Gua Sha’ class, another popular option here, delving into the ancient Chinese technique, once popular with royalty, that tones skin by detoxing the lymphatic system.   

There’s something about peering at the azure-meets-midnight blue waters that’s extremely meditative. There was a chance to do just that at sunset on the second day. A group of us ventured 15 minutes by boat into the open sea in search of dolphins. A couple of days prior, on another boat, at a different resort, I’d sent a telepathic message to the dolphins, telling them that I’d order dolphin sushi the next time I was at a Japanese restaurant if they didn’t show up during my stay on Fari.  

Evidently, this method of persuasion worked. There were numerous pods of these friendly ‘fishes’ flipping about that day, no doubt compelled by late-90s dance music and the whistling of the boat staff. As dolphin feeding isn’t allowed, the fact that these aquatic beings deigned to cavort with humans sipping sparkling wine and munching on spiced cashews was both wholesome and humbling.  

At dinner that night, at a table facing the resort’s round infinity pool, bordered by jade-tinged lighting reminiscent of a scene from one of many sci-fi straight-to-Netflix series, a theatrical spectacle took place. It involved tribal drums, a fire-lit circle, and not a small degree of pomp, featuring an imagined reality (man-made island and devastatingly gorgeous pool architecture) and God-made sunset. Among the dishes served, there was Maldivian lobster with yuzu and green chili, as well as tuna steak. My promise to the dolphins was kept (also, dolphin sushi wasn’t on the menu.) 

Images courtesy of Ritz-Carlton Maldives Fari Islands.

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