Is This the Most Romantic Secret Stay in All of Asia?

WHEN STAYING AT LUNUGANGA, the country estate of the late, great Geoffrey Bawa, one gets the distinct impression that whatever Geoffrey wanted, he got. Over the course of 40 years, the lawyer turned Sri Lanka’s premier architect transformed a rambling former cinnamon plantation into an architectural and horticultural masterpiece by bending, at times literally, nature’s will to achieve his vision of perfection.

The poetically named Cinnamon Hill, where Bawa’s ashes are buried, had its top levelled and an existing public road sunk to provide uninterrupted sight lines to the southern shores of Lake Dedduwa. Gnarled branches unfurl in seemingly natural ways from trees that had once been grafted together and weighed down with bricks to shape their growth. Motorized boats were banned from the lake so as not to disturb the peace. And that’s not the half of it.

The result, however, is a destination of immense enchantment, where Bawa constructed model buildings and tested his designs within an Arcadian sanctuary that manages to be both wild and immaculate. It’s a historic, yet living, growing chronicle of work, a laboratory of ideas from the father of tropical modernism for the public to experience.

I first visited Lunuganga, which means “salt river,” in 2010, soon after the end of Sri Lanka’s long civil war. Then, I did a tour of the gardens, which is how most visitors still experience it, but I’d long dreamed of staying there. So when news got out that Bawa’s master suite is now available to book, the very one occupied by the man himself, I had to return.   

Set on a serene lagoon off the Bentota River midway between the capital Colombo and the UNESCO-listed fort city of Galle, Lunuganga is a world on its own. It was my final stop after a tour of the splendid tea country and Galle, staying at fabulous properties run by Teardrop Hotels, who also manage the daily operations of Lunuganga under the auspices of the Geoffrey Bawa Trust.

Spurning the fast but dull highway, we take the old coastal road from Galle, cruising past swaying palms, small villages and stands of coconut sellers, the blue waters of the Indian Ocean never far away.

Once through the estate’s gates, I’m enveloped by greenery, the car brushing past fronds and vines under a canopy of bamboo and old rubber trees. The 12-acre property consists of the main residence, a converted 1930s planter’s bungalow which houses the living areas and just two bedrooms, including the Geoffrey Bawa Suite, and the remaining accommodations scattered around the undulating grounds.

You’re effectively staying in a museum. The bungalow and external buildings, added over the years, have been sensitively preserved, with a few concessions to modernity and comfort, including Wi-Fi and air con, thankfully. Most of the furniture, fittings, artworks and objects are the same as when Bawa died in 2003, with only the most fragile pieces removed.  

Within the minimalist master suite, the spirit, if not the ghost of Bawa can be seen and felt. Apart from some old books protected behind a Perspex screen, nearly everything else can be enjoyed as he would have. I sit at his desk and armchair, then flop onto his platform bed (the mattress is new!) under a flotilla of paper mobiles, while shafts of sunlight penetrate deep into the room.

Interplays of light and shadows, indoors and outdoors were important to Bawa and it’s cleverly on display here, as it is throughout the property. His study leads onto an internal courtyard with reflection pool, and the bathroom opens onto a second private courtyard, this one with tiled dipping pool.

Meals are served by longstanding staff under the bungalow’s north portico, though ask to dine on the checkerboard lawn where the frangipani grow for a full alfresco experience. Pancake-like egg hoppers accompanied by sambol are a must for breakfast, while rice and curry are excellent choices for lunch or dinner, the delicious sides and condiments almost meals in themselves. Sundowners overlooking the lower garden and lake is magical (ask to sit in Bawa’s favorite spot), though the mosquitoes can be a nuisance.  

One of the great joys, of course, is having the estate almost to yourself once the day-trippers have gone, when you have the time to appreciate the breadth of his labours, not to mention genius, and enjoy the estate as intended, slowly and serendipitously.

Ridiculously scenic spots abound for quiet contemplation or photo ops, including the butterfly-shaped water lily ponds, the boat landing guarded by a leopard sculpture, the library that served as the model for Sri Lanka’s parliamentary gallery, and the brand-new infinity lap pool. Don’t miss batik artist Ena de Silva’s stunning house (which can be booked for stays) that Bawa designed for his dear friend in Colombo, transplanted brick by brick to Lunuganga.

It would be easy not to leave the property during your stay, though an early morning rafting excursion around the tranquil lagoon as Brahmini kites soar above the glassy waters where crocodiles lurk, is a wonderful way to start the day. And farther afield, Brief Garden, the home of Geoffrey’s naughty older brother Bevis, is well worth a detour for its verdant landscaped grounds, which hide several louche sculptures.

Ultra-luxurious Lunuganga is not, and quirks are part of the deal. But if architecture, design, gorgeous gardens and unique hotels of style, history and character appeal, then this is for you.

www.teardrop-hotels.com/lunuganga; rooms from USD215 per night, including tax and breakfast; Geoffrey Bawa Suite from USD545 per night, including tax and breakfast.

Getting there:

Within Southeast Asia, there are direct flights to Colombo from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore—and, as of February 2, 2024, Hong Kong via Cathay Pacific, which has three flights per week on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays on an Airbus A330.

To complement the relaunch of this flightpath, Teardrop Hotels has created a special itinerary dishing up the best of Sri Lanka’s south coast.

The itinerary includes four nights’ accommodation across two boutique hotels in two iconic destinations on Sri Lanka’s south and southwest coast: Fort Bazaar in UNESCO World Heritage Galle Fort and Lunuganga near Bentota. Fort Bazaar, once a handsome merchant’s home, is now an 18-room spa hotel on Church Street promising serenity, high-end service, afternoon social hour, a host of luxurious in-room amenities, and modern dining. Just outside, you can immerse yourself in the vibrant heritage of Galle Fort. Some fantastic experiences include a complimentary walking tour with a resident historian of the Fort’s cobblestone streets lined with quaint shops, galleries, and architectural wonders dating back centuries. You may also like to take on a Sri Lankan culinary experience with Fort Bazaar’s on-site chef. A short distance from Galle are pristine, picture-postcard beaches.

The second leg of the itinerary takes you to Lunuganga, the world-famous lake-front estate designed by Bawa, as detailed above. Surrounded by lush greenery and stunning vistas, Lunuganga offers a serene retreat where guests can unwind amidst the architectural brilliance. A special experience at Lunuganga for all in-house guests is the garden tour. Other immersive experiences in this part of south Sri Lanka include a morning or afternoon boat ride along the Dedduwa Lake from the banks of Lunuganga or a visit to nearby traditional mask museums.

From USD2,610 for two guests, including bed and breakfast, and transfers (Colombo airport to Fort Bazaar, Fort Bazaar to Lunuganga, Lunuganga to airport). For more information and bookings, please contact Teardrop Hotels at enquiries@teardrop-island.com.

Images courtesy of Lunuganga Estate.

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