A Magical New Resort Has Emerged from the Balinese Jungle

I’D SUFFERED UBUD TRAFFIC JAMS, winding roads and a torrential downpour to reach Anantara Ubud Resort Bali. In the open-air lobby, with the rain and thunder still providing a dramatic backdrop, I was given a traditional Balinese welcome, with a frangipani flower tucked behind my ear as a sign of hospitality, grains of broken rice pressed onto my forehead representing a spiritual blessing, and a red (meaning creativity and life), black (for protection) and white (purity) tridatu thread bracelet tied to my right wrist. 

I was soothed, blessed and anointed. But everyone and their yoga mat is seeking the meaning of life in Bali these days, and I have what I think is a healthy dose of skepticism regarding mystical connections. Still, as if on cue, the rain subsided as my check-in completed, and I walked down the 130 steps to my villa in sunshine. (Cable cars will take you to the villas further down the valley.)  

The main lobby building at Anantara Ubud also houses its restaurants, bars and fitness center, as well as the guest suites that rise above it. It is perched at the crest of a hill, and the resort’s spa and villas—including mine—are located on the slope that descends to the Pikat River (I was informed that pikat meaning the tie or link between God and the universe.) 

Back in my villa, there was still enough sun for a quick dip in the private infinity pool that runs the length of the bedroom and living room. I did a bit of a Goldilocks routine trying to find my favorite spot in the spacious rooms. “Just right” turned out to be the ottoman with a footrest that together turned it into a comfy chaise longue. The rooms themselves are in muted tones—white walls, tan furniture and light wood paneling—with a few pops of color from the upholstery and artwork.  

One other nice detail I took full advantage of was a roomy bathtub on the other side of my walk-in dressing room. Natural light would stream in from a floor-to-ceiling window behind it—but because the window faced the hillside, it was totally private.  

I had most of my breakfasts, lunches and dinners at airy all-day diner Kirana, which offers indoor and outdoor seating with lush, green views over the resort and valley. Breakfast was a winner whether I went Indonesian like nasi goreng sune cekuh (mixed vegetable fried rice with tempeh) or Western. I learned that Dedy, the resident pastry chef, arrives every day at the crack of dawn to ensure that flaky, buttery croissants are fresh out of the oven.  

For mains, though I enjoyed a burger and a Roman al taglio-style pizza, being in Bali, I was more inclined to get local dishes. I recommend the “Babi Kirana,” which combines Bali’s famous roast pork and urutan, aromatic pork sausages. I almost ordered seconds of the sup sari segara—a clear, spicy seafood broth.  

All of the resort’s dining and drinking venues seemed to have valley views for days. Like fine-diner Amerta, where chef James Willis serves his globally inspired tasting menu, and the elegant Sulang bar, which overlooks the resort’s heated pool (taking the chill off is necessary in the jungle hills during Bali’s cool season). 

The most memorable moments during my stay were the one-of-a-kind outings, or “Anantara Experiences.” Early on my first morning, the resort’s naturalist, Nita, took me to Pura Mengening, a water temple we had all to ourselves located just a stone’s throw away from the far more crowded Tirta Empul purification site. Founded in 1022 CE, Mengening just celebrated its millennial anniversary. We made our offerings of flowers and incense before wading into the sacred pools located at the foot of a waterfall to cleanse ourselves, washing our faces, mouths and heads three times at each of the water spouts. I’m not sure I was purer afterwards, but it was a beautiful, refreshing ceremony.  

That evening, I went to the nearby home of Idha Guru for a rarer form of blessing: Agni Yajna or purification by fire. Idha Guru, who holds the highest rank for a Balinese priest, explained the connection between humanity, universe and God in Balinese cosmology before we fed a bonfire with rice and other offerings. My fire burned steady and strong, a testament, he said, to my good soul.  

I don’t know about that, but I did meet a good soul the next day. Nita took me to meet Wayan Wardika, an inspiring farmer who walked me through his village of Taro and his farm, introducing me to his aunt (who has a thing for coconut cookies) and his mother. He talked about the importance of organic farming and the challenges of convincing his neighbors that adopting sustainable practices is good not just for the environment but for their wallet as well.  

To support his efforts, he has created a space that brings in people to learn about fireflies. Fireflies are said to carry souls, but they’re also an important indicator species for the environment—sensitive to changes in the water, air and soil, and a good gauge of how clean or polluted the land is—and by extension the universe we live in.  

That is what Anantara did best for me: made me feel at one with my surroundings. And that is reason enough for me to want to go back.  

Anantara Ubud Resort Bali is two to three hours north of Ngurah Rai International Airport depending on traffic, and about 45 minutes from the middle of Ubud. One-bedroom Forest View villas start at IDR 12,787,418.  

BOOK YOUR STAY AT ANANTARA UBUD BALI RESORT VIA BOOKING.COM

Images courtesy of Anantara Ubud Resort Bali.

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